Best skincare for hyperpigmentation

Best skincare for hyperpigmentation starts with a consistent approach to your skincare routine. Always cleanse twice a day, use targeted serums, and protect your skin with a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every day, even on cloudy days.

Why do people seek treatment for hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation can have a negative impact on a person’s well-being. There is often a belief that an even skin tone is synonymous with beauty, youthfulness, and health. Advertisements, social media, and beauty industry trends often reinforce these ideals, leading individuals to aspire to achieve a more even complexion.

Many people associate having an even skin tone with feeling more confident and having higher self-esteem. When individuals perceive their skin to be blemished or discoloured, it can affect their self-image and make them feel self-conscious. Therefore, seeking an even skin tone may be an attempt to improve their self-perception and feel more comfortable in their own skin.

Uneven skin tone can be caused by various factors, including hyperpigmentation from acne scars, sun damage, or melasma. Individuals may seek an even skin tone to address or reduce the appearance of these conditions, thereby improving the overall health and appearance of their skin.

Best skincare products for hyperpigmentation

There are several skincare ingredients known for their ability to help reduce pigmentation and even out skin tone. Here are some commonly used anti-pigment ingredients and the corresponding skincare products you can find in my clinic.

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is a widely used ingredient for treating hyperpigmentation, often termed as gold standard. It works by inhibiting the enzyme responsible for melanin production, thereby lightening dark spots and patches. However, it is important to use hydroquinone under the guidance of a doctor, as it can cause skin irritation or even rebound hyperpigmentation in some individuals.

 Hydroquinone is utilised in the Obagi Medical Nu-derm Rx system and in the Obagi Medical C Rx system.

Retinoids

Retinoids, such as retinol and prescription-strength retinoids like tretinoin, are derivatives of vitamin A. They have several roles within the skin. Firstly, they exfoliate the skin helping to remove dead skin on the surface. Secondly, they promote cell turnover as skin cell cycle speeds up. As a result, pigmentation fades over time. Additionally, retinoids can also improve the overall texture and appearance of the skin.

I have several brands of products that contain retinoids in Skin Enhance and Wellness, Billericay. Tretinoin is available as Obagi Medical Tretinoin at 0.025%, 0.05%, and 0.1%. Slow-release retinol serums are available at 0.25%, 0.5%, and 1% from AlumierMD or 0.5% and 1% from Obagi Medical. Retinol is available from ZO Skin Health as Radical Night Repair, Wrinkle texture and repair, and Retinol skin brighteners. Patented retinoids are available as Skinbetter Apharet cream which combines retinoids with alpha-hydroxy acids.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is an antioxidant that helps brighten the skin and fade hyperpigmentation. It inhibits the production of melanin and provides a more even skin tone. Look for stable forms of vitamin C, such as ascorbic acid or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, in skincare products.

In my clinic, the famous Obagi Medical Vitamin serum is available at 10%, 15%, and 20%. AlumierMD EverActive C & E peptide delivers the freshest vitamin C due to its unique packaging. Other vitamin C products include Skinbetter EvenTone serum and ZO Skin Health 10% self-activating serum.

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is available in the AlumierMD Intellibright complex serum.

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid that has brightening and exfoliating properties. It helps to fade dark spots, even out skin tone, and reduce inflammation. Azelaic acid is suitable for various skin types and is available in both prescription and over-the-counter formulations.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a versatile ingredient that offers multiple benefits for the skin. It helps reduce the production of melanin, evens out skin tone, and improves overall skin texture. Niacinamide is well-tolerated and can be found in various skincare products, including serums and moisturizers.

There are several products containing niacinamide in the AlumierMD range. This includes Ultimate boost serum, Intellibright complex serum, EvenTone Serum, Clarifying Serum, HydrLight moisturiser, HydraDew moisturiser, Sensicalm Cleanser and ClearSheild sunscreen to name a few. You can also find niacinamide in the Obagi Medical HydroDrops and ZO Skin Health Brightalive serum.

Licorice Extract

Licorice extract contains an active compound called glabridin, which helps inhibit the enzyme involved in melanin production. It has skin-lightening and anti-inflammatory properties, making it useful for reducing hyperpigmentation.

You can find this in AlumierMD Intellibright complex serum, AlumierMD EvenTone serum and ZO Skin Health Brightalive serum.

Alpha Arbutin

Alpha arbutin is a naturally occurring ingredient derived from bearberry plants. It is converted into hydroquinone in the skin and works by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. Hence, it is commonly used in skincare products for fading hyperpigmentation.

The Obagi Medical Nu-derm Fx system uses arbutin in Clear and Blender. Skinbetter Science Even Tone serum contains arbutin as one of its 7 anti-pigment ingredients. You can also find it in AlumierMD Intellibright Complex serum and ZO Skin Health Brightalive serum.

Tranexamic acid

There are 3 ways tranexamic acid can fade pigmentation. Firstly, it inhibits melanin production. Secondly, it has an anti-inflammatory effect which is particularly useful in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Thirdly, it inhibits new blood vessel formation and hence can be beneficial in melasma.

Tranexamic acid can be found in the ZO Skin Health Brightalive serum.

Cysteamine

Cysteamine is a biological substance produced within the body. It can treat hyperpigmentation by 3 mechanisms. Firstly, it inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme, reducing the formation of melanin. Secondly, it helps break down melanin pigments and facilitate their elimination from the skin cells resulting in an even tone. Thirdly, by reducing inflammation, cysteamine helps to minimise the production and deposition of new melanin in the skin.

Cyspera Intensive System is available to purchase in the clinic after a consultation.

When using products containing these ingredients, it is essential to follow the instructions provided and be patient, as it may take several weeks or even months to see noticeable improvements in pigmentation. Additionally, it’s always a good idea to combine these with in-clinic treatments like chemical peels and micro needling where appropriate to achieve better results. UV exposure can worsen hyperpigmentation, so it’s crucial to protect your skin from the sun every day.

If you would like a skin analysis and a bespoke treatment plan to manage your hyperpigmentation, you can book a comprehensive consultation using the link below.